As predicted there was much less swells energy in the ocean this morning, plus an extreme low tide getting ready to go up. Initially I was in the middle break and there the waves were breaking about hip high. As I wrote before these small waves were very difficult to catch and continue to ride even with my floaty board, and if I am not careful sometimes it is very easy to pearl.
I find these types of waves quite a bit of challenge to ride. I would almost prefer overhead size waves because they are so much easier to catch and ride. The small waves need a very careful and delicate riding style and any attempts to force a ride will wind up in a wipe out. It is more difficult to balance. But, I still need to maintain and gain some speed. I was actually very stoked to get a couple of very very long rides.
Towards the middle of the session, more substantial breaks were happening towards the north end of the beach so I stayed there and got a few more powerful rides so my appetite completely filled... and then was the time to go to work.
Stoke 6.
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