Wednesday, July 21, 2004

Session 4.132: Back to LM!

Stoke 6 or even 7 today. People got to know by now that the Stoke rating is your own measure of how stoked you were. There are some people I know that Stoke = WaveHeight, and as far as I am concerned that's a Poser level than anything else. I can be just as equally stoked on a 3 ft waves as well as a 12 ft massive close out that is throwing me over the falls. Either ways, if I had a nice take off and a long ride (and it is both possible to have a 30-second ride on either ones), then that's a high-stoke day! So here is a message to posers and would-be posers. It is possible to ride and have fun at any wave sizes. You just got to learn how to enjoy them!

So why Stoke 6 today? Because I took off on move waves than the most people and rode a lot, and I took out both short and long boards and I just had a lot of fun riding both of them.

I just love these junky poor condition days, because there are still a lot of good waves to ride hidden between the waves, and I will never see those type of surfers ordering me and others where and how to surf stealing every dam wave from all other surfers.  The playing field is even. There is nothing to steal nor anything to be stolen from. This is where the true skill counts and not how floaty your board is. Of course, I got an ultimate LM assault vehicle made by Doyle if I ever have to use it. Though, what the point, so I would never do it.

And when it is choppy like today, it is more fun to negotiate between the poppers.


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