Friday, July 09, 2004

Session 4.125: Stoke 10!!! Finally I can Surf!

I had an incredible morning. Not only I repeated the left rides from all the way in the S end to the N end of the beach, I was able to get small waves to surf on 8-ft waves on the N end barely scraping the wall with my hand, and to top that off, I was able to keep cutting back starting on a left wave then to the right wave. Everything I did went perfect. I was taking off on a almost-ready-to-crash walls. I was able to command the board to where I wanted to go accurately.
This was the day that I was waiting. I've been in rides like these before but they were more as a result of luck and I was not controlling nor planning the rides. But this morning, I was able to take off when I wanted, and take the board to where I wanted to go. 
So I think I can surf, and this is the start of really learning how really to surf. My progress have been slow, had two emergency accidents, and lots of things but I am finally getting it.
So after I had this remarkable experience, I was thinking about whether to compete or not at the HMB surfing classic or other events. But it came to me that why should I need to work so hard or show my surfing "off" to other surfers and friends, when I can just get up in the morning and continue to have fun surfing myself, and also start focusing on other fun things like playing Jazz with my wife or getting back into building surf forecasting web sites etc.
Then the whole weight on my shoulder have came off and I took several more rides in "prefect" control.
It has been quite an adventure up to now, and I am really glad I took up this sport and met many many friends. Now I think I am in the Phase II of surfing life. I am really looking forward to it.
So onto soul surfing!
Thank you everyone, it has been a blast!
This is the final post to the StokeMaster group of WaveLog. This feature will continue to be available on the blogger though, so if you would like to continue to get read it, you can download an XML news reader. Instructions to get my XML contents are available by clicking the XML Logo on the left menu bar.

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