Tuesday, July 27, 2004

Session 4.136: Back on DP! Stoke 8. Roundhouse by Oct 31!

Good progress is continuing, and I am really ecstatic about this.

I loaded everything in my car, including the laptop and even I put the piping hot water in the water canister so by the DP it is just at the right temperature. Looking at the swell size and shape on the way home, I thought it was "safe" to bring my 7'6 Person hybrid, so I only strapped that on. One of the advantages of surfing with shorter boards is it is so much easier to handle it.

Then set the alarm to 5:15 and went to bed. When the alarm went off, I promptly turned it off so as not to bother my wife's sleep, but as soon as I've done that, I was back in sleep and slept for another hour. It really goes to say that I have to be really committed to go to bed early. No more playing until 11:30 and expect to do a real DP!

nonetheless, I was in the water by 7:00, as all I had to was to just hop in the car and go. Ken was already committed and so was in the water! Also the tide was at the best level; medium incoming. It was just right kind of waves for the hybrid board.

Sets were breaking at around the high chest level today, and it was a lot of fun to continue practicing the "late start." By this what I mean is to start right when (and where) a lip is about to form, paddle real hard and almost jump into it. I have gotten a "taste" of this week and since then I have been starting to obsess with this type of start. When and if I succeed with it, I can often get higher quality rides that lasts longer!

Today I felt the continued improvement in handling the 7'6 board and this is a good sign that I am finally entering the realm of really riding shorter boards with an confidence, control and speed. The rides are no longer a result of just more or less a luck. Luck is also an important element of advancing, as by some pure chance, I do something that I was not able to before, and once I get a taste of it, I will go back for more with what I have just experienced. The second time I need a less luck and by the 10th or the 20th time, I can actually make that happen intentionally.

So today, I am going to revise my goal. I have a feeling that I am getting closer (thanks Ward for the daily encouragement!).

The Roundhouse by October 31st!
Perhaps our two week trip to Maui will let me get there, since I am going to do a 3-4 hour session every day!

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