4.123, Wed 7/7: Taking advantage of the fact that Wendy takes a class on Wed nights, I put in the second session with Ren and Amanda. The wave surface was surprisingly glassy in the S end of the beach and also there were both big and smaller breaks. There were some really good surfers out. I surfred with Ren and Amanda for a while then I moved further north to see what it would be like.
I have not seen Ren surf in a while as she stopped coming to do the DPs with me, but I have seen quite a bit of improvements in her surfing. At one of the rides she showed me a nice and wide cut-back and that looked really natural, and as usual she was catching a lot of waves on her 9'0. She is doing great and have made a great progress. Her friend Amanda caught one nice wave too. Looking forward to see her progress next year!
It is somewhat ironic that "goofy footed" Ren was taking lots of rights, and I have been taking almost exclusively left rides lately on my "regular foot" stance.
We know we are having fun when we keep surfing until it is so dark that we cannot see the waves coming, but last night it was almost like that.
A nice 123 session on lucky 7/7!
4.124: THU 7/8: After a night, a morning comes and I was at it again. But over night the swell has gotten a bit more powerful and so we were getting a lot of close-outs and lot of crested "C" waves that are very difficult to take-off from. But on the other hands these waves have so much power in them that if you just sit in front of the break line many of the waves reform nicely inside so I opted to ride as many of these reforms as I could. My rides are consistently becoming longer and line selection is becoming easier in the past several sessions. I am really happy now to be able to enjoy all sorts of conditions. Now that I think about this, I do not stall in the middle of a ride as much any more as I keeping the speed and angle at much more confidence!
Good to see you Ken.