Back to the same place as yesterday, and overall the waves and set frequency has gotten smaller... but... I really had a remarkable ride this morning in one of the few big sets as once in a while still "monster" sets erupted.
I actually started out, seeing how small it was, on a Fish to see how well I can do in the inside. I tried it for a while, caught a few waves but nothing of significance. I also brought the Doyle and so I switched it. As usual, instantly the wider options of getting waves opened up.
These days, when I want to go somewhere in the beach, I use combination of paddling and also riding. Usually I start from the S end of a beach and try to ride one small left to another and then eventually I was able to wind up in another peak area where a lot of people were hanging around. A lot, to mean about 5 or 6 users in this case.
When I got there, I caught several smaller ones but then this break from the outside started to form. By the time I was up on the wave it was easily 8-9 ft as someone else commented to me, and it happened really outside. I almost did not get it, the wave was going to go under me, but then with one extra kick with both my arms, the board picked up the speed. Now right in front of me was a beautiful plain slope, just like on skiing. As the wave built up more the speed picked up very fast and there was a lot of pressure on my feet when I was turning to the left. Then I saw the wave started to close out on the left, I made a quick wide cutback turn to the right. I was almost going to lose it, because when I turned to the right another face was closing right in front of me. Quickly I corrected to a straight down direction, then remarkablly the one that was coming from the right started to reform back into another mountain. I was already set up to cut to the left again, and I kept riding another 10 seconds.
I actually could have another ride that could have topped this one, but this is where if I had the Takayama, I would have made it. What happened was this. Another big one just like the previous one came after a while. When the wave started to crest, I actually took off on it, I got kicked up in the air as I was trying to land on the board that is already on the face. But I was out of control at that point and my feet and by board missed by a fraction of a second. Needless to say, I was very disappointed. If I had that one, I probably had a tremendous vertical drop, and then using that power, I could rally have cranked a heavy left back in to the face. A guy looking at me was wondering what happened on that because he knew I was going to catch it.
It was probably one of the longest ride I have gotten at this location, and I will not forget about this ride for some time. Well, never, actually, because I have written to remember this one!
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