First time back in the water since Sunday! I was expecting the S swells to work like a magic like a few weeks before August last year. But today, it was rather junky. But having said that though, there still were some waves I could surf on. And if there is any difference this year, there actually is a difference. I can actually do some intentional surfing even when it looked like some agitated mess out. Among these junky ripples, there were some "exploding in the butt" type waves just pop up suddently. It is kind of like a rocket booster igniting in the tail. If you catch those, it is short but fast ride... the fact of catching them just make you really happy as not everyone do or can catch those.
This afternoon was one of the days that I made a new discovery, and sometimes, these new discoveries are really educational even though they happen normally by an accident. This time I was amazed by how much the board is capable of turning. It is a nice reward for going out a lot.
At this beach, the beach breaks are rampant. And so just for a heck of it, I rode the wave almost all the way in and did a really hard turn at the last part of the break thinking that I would probably stall and stop. Instead, the board kept turning up and up and held on to the water. Of course, I was finally eaten by the wave and did not get through to the other side of the wave, but I did not know that the board can turn like that. I was really amazed. I am taking about not much more than 2 seconds worth of an event, but what I felt was significantly differnt kind of a turn then I have ever experienced. This must be how these good people can always pull out of the waves the last moment!
Saddly though, when I got out of the water, my friend was frantically looking for his car. To make the story short, a theif took the car, moved it to another park entrance, look for anything of value, and then took off. According to the local sheriff, this same method was used just last week on another vehicle!