Tuesday, June 29, 2004

Session 4116: High-Stoke Surfing Continues STOKE 9 Today

These past several sessions have been very great, and I am so happy about all of them. Today more nice gentle and clean condition prevails, with an added side-off shore winds prevailing the surface was glassy, plus nice sunny mornings. It almost feels like the fall is already here upon us and it is still only June!
In the past several weeks, I think I have really improved on take-offs so much that I can take off on much wider situations than ever and even though it is very obvious skill, it now occurs very close to my heart that how much important that skill is, and going back to long boarding has really been a big help plus a big boost in my confidence.
It has been quite a while Ken joined me in surfing and I was also very happy to see he has made a great progress. Good going Ken!
I wrote about crossing a kind of a milestone a while ago in my log. I should elaborate about that one a bit as it became more clear to me just now what is exactly that I crossed. What has really changed is that where I can now put a focus on, and that's riding the waves. Funny as it sounds, but as I finally start to nail take-offs and get something like 90% success rate in doing it, then I can now really leave that part of surfing behind and start focusing on the actual rides.
It just goes to say that surfing requires a lot of different skills to come together and thus it can take quite some time, especially if you start to get into this as a adult.
It took me two seasons to get to this, and there is a lot more to learn still!

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