I checked out the JTY around 7:30 a.m., and looked kind of flat with already dozen people competing for the breaks. These days, I am starting to be able to surf many waves in Half Moon Bay area that instead of driving to Montara or Linda Mar, I just stay in the area. Now, especially with a wide variety of board choices I have, picking places has become more fun and confident.
I am still a bit hesitant on the first person in the breaks, and previously, I would not have gone in unless there is someone else already, but these days, I have much more confidence that I still have a bit of hesitation, but I can easily get over that and will go in. Sure it is pretty lonely out in the breaks but then there usually are people on the beach spectating, so I try my best to throw a good show.
The summer waves are definitely small, but on the other hands, it has been my policy always to get out no matter what, and get the best I can, and I usually be treated with something fun. Even at the time when we were at Sand Dollar with the waves really junky, I stayed with on with the waves, and I really learned a lot. Of course having Katy and Clio around gave me much needed morale boost and confidence, and that's friends come in.
I don't know whether it is the waves or what, but in many sessions in the past couple of weeks I remember, I get so many more lefts than rights, and I am actually starting to favor the lefts even though that's backside for me. In fact, I don't remember the last time I took off to the right, and I am not goofy footed. The lefts are fun because cut-backs are front-side turns and actually I can practice these types of cut-backs with a more confidence!
I know several people who would not go out unless the condition is just right. I am wondering if I would ever become like that, but so far, my policy, or a commitment, of not doing that is working. First, and more so recently is that I am now hitting the beaches with being fully intending on having a good time. When bigger sets come, I try to smile at the sets and just relax a bit before catching them. Last season, when I see bigger sets coming at me, I would think "Oh, shit..." and then frantically try to catch it, or try not to get eaten by them paddling up to it or whatever. Even when I get eaten up or thrown forward, I am more relaxed under water for the wave to pass by.