Well, I almost did not go today because I have been behind on a few work
projects earlier today. But all of a sudden several members of my
Stokemasters group posted messages that they wanted to go out this late
afternoon, and also I finished off a major project so all that encouraged me
to go.
Since this is a PM surfing and also my wife came back to the city this
afternoon and told me that there were a lot of people out so I strapped the
new Doyle 9'0 and also my usual Fish on my car. I headed north from home and
figured why not check out a few local spots before I hit Linda Mar where
everyone is supposed to be. Usually we have less wind problems down this way
than the OB or LM. So I stopped at this a bit obscure spot and there were
some nice soft small breaks going, probably the chest size max, and besides
that there was nobody else in the ocean! This is perfect beach break for the
Doyle board so I was stoked and went in.
It was so much fun, and caught so many waves that I actually got tired
within an hour where I probably caught over dozen waves. I caught just about
every wave I went for and felt like they were coming just about every couple
of minutes so it is hard not to paddle out and turn around immediately to
catch waves.
I have been getting much better at taking off on a long board when the wave
steepens up. Especially when you know the wave is just about do stand up
after successfully getting in the wave and standing, just pressing the back
of the board hard and the board shoots out from the wave and drop down, or
almost it feels like jumping down into the wave and once that happens, there
is quite a bit of speed to the board that it is so much fun to turn.
Wish that it was breaking a bit bigger and further out. Stoke 7 for catching
a lot and owning the whole beach to myself!
There were about 2000 birds flocking out in the ocean, probably catching
some migrating small fishes. I have never seen that many birds in once
place.
No comments:
Post a Comment