Finally I am back in the DP mode again.
I should have loaded the DT4 on my car this morning but got too lazy and
left on the Doyle from last night, but it turned out to be fun morning with
nobody left or right of me for several hundred yards, so, essentially I had
the section to myself.
The size and period of sets were just right for me with up to chest highs
coming in every 3-4 minutes.
I have been having a blast on every session I go. I am catching
tremendously more waves now than ever and often the rides last much longer
One funny thing I noticed between yesterday and today is that the foam board
has so much flotation in the front that it is almost impossible to sink the
front-end of the board. If I realize that it is start to sink, just continue
to paddle shifting the weight to the back and the front will emerge from the
water. A few times I was almost going to pearl, but was saved by this nice
Another fun practice I tried was to take a really wide stance and trying to
shift the weight really back and front... like when I was little I used to
stand in the middle of a see-saw and made it tilt left and right (my school
teacher would come out and tell me not to play it that way though). But, it
is really interesting how easily the board pivots around by putting the
weight in the back and changing the leaning. I have seen several experienced
longboarders do this motion to get their board to turn, but now I think I
understand this better. Now I got an Indo-Board so I can try to enforce this
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