Tuesday, June 01, 2004

Session 4098: Lone Surfing. Philosophy: Am I a surf nut or what?

Well, I was going to Linda Mar this afternoon on the way back from work. As I go South on the highway 1 from Rockaway, there is a hill that opens up a wide view of the beach. A moment of anticipation... damn! It's all creamy!
So I drove on to the Jetty and then that was non-happening so I am back to the same spot where we were on Sunday. At least it was not all creamy so I could get out. I was an only one surfer in the vicinity and so I stole all the waves for nobody for an hour session. The waves were small but it was a lot of fun to catch one after another. In terms of overall stokes it is about 5. The weather has been really good here lately without much in terms of fogs and the swells are not totally dead, and even the wind is reasonable.
So, by now, many people think I am nearly crazy to talk about surfing and dip in the water almost every day! But am I really a nut? For example, you eat breakfast, lunch and dinner almost every day right? Will that make us eating nut? Actually I think so, and as such why not try to enjoy the most stokeful breakfast, dinner and lunch every day, as much as possible. Ok so that's life's necessity. How about the people who jog or go to the gym every day or every other days? Somehow, if you hear someone who jogs every other day won't seem to constitute a jogging nut. What is common to all of them is that we've incorporated these activities as part of our life, as much as easting three meals a day. Compared to jogging or tennis playing, or even golf, it really dose not make much more effort to go surfing often. What is interesting is though, most people are stoked to hear about people surfing a lot. Which, to me, is a good thing.

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