Probably it sound very strange for me to write that "I am finally enjoying surfing." Actually this enjoyment started to happen around a month ago.
Up until that time, to go out to surf meant that there was some element of fear that has been associated with. It can be both physical and mental ones, like being afraid of being out in the water, and being intimidated by better surfers. But finally, there are now sessions that I am not really that afraid of lots of things. Today was one of these days that the session was filled with more joy than being fearful.
Physically, I feel that I am much more tuned with handling the board, dealing or being in the water with waves in various situations, and became much more confident in the water. Mentally, with the added confidence, I feel as if I can project my presence on the waves to others. I really feel that bits and pieces are coming together.
I am not trying to say that I have gotten technically good at surfing. That will take several more years, or I am not even progress much technically (and that's still OK), but I am really happy that from this day forward I am much happier as a surfer in the water than ever before.
A good part of this is that I got a lot of support from the StokeMasters group. It is amazing that the membership has grown so much in just a year of existence and every one of the surfer that joined was so nice and supportive to me and others.
Today was also a strange very friendly day.
On the way to the surf, I think it was Wardo (or may be Curtis) saw me and honked. Then when I was changing in the parking lot, someone came by and waved at me, then in the water some guy wave waving at me too.
While I was at the North end for a hour I must have caught a dozen waves and just about every one of the wave was a nice long left, and with a small cut backs now I do, just about every ride was long and fun. Probably I should give today a Stoke 9 day!