Monday, June 28, 2004

Session 4115: Stoke 9.5!!!! Nearly a perfect DP.

What a perfect morning this was. Nice sunny weather with gentle overhead sets coming in breaking further out.
The training on the foamy has been really paying off that I am now much better at timing for catching waves also I am more confidently going for bigger sets. One factor that has been helping is that I have been much more relaxed about the whole situation of catching more bigger and challenging sets than ever.
I see a break coming up, turn the board around (this is much easier on the DT4, I must add), the tail jacks up and I am now in the wave. Now my scope of vision is much wider and I see the whole slope opening up in front of me. I feel the board and see which way it wants to go, and let that happen and it guides me through the first section. Now I explore the surrounding and see where I am going next. Looking to where I want to go, and almost like a magic, the board will start to point in that direction....
Definitely the Takayama DT4 has a noticeably snappier response, so turning on this board is more fun. But on the other hands on the foam board, I just work a bit harder and can do the same turns. But should I have taken out the foamy today, I would just have had as much fun (and probably even gone to try some bigger breaks that was happening a bit further north!).
I ran into Jack this morning, who goes to Fiji a lot and gave him a hard time "Excuse me sir, this is a beginner only spot, so please go back to Fiji." He saw one of my rides and approved it, so I think I am getting better.
He told me that there are all-inclusive $2400 trip to Fiji (beer not included) and intermediate surfers have their spots and it is not all experts only. Sounds tempting. Also he was trying sucker me into the HMB Surfing Classic this year. Looks like I might get suckered in, in spite of "no competition this year" announcement I made earlier!
I also showed him my 6'6 French Fish and he was so stoked, I should be ready to get back on the board again later on this week.

Manabu S. Tokunaga
Aka. Malibu Topanga



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