Session 4020: Rincon Day 1
This is the weekend that I decided to come to Santa Barbara and Ventura area to have a long weekend surfing. As I was leaving on Thursday afternoon a flurry of news came along via e-mail, IM, and phone calls that the Mavericks contest is actually on. I suspected it would be because of the swells clocking 20 seconds range. I was sort of glad that I got out of HMB since what counts for me is to be on the board on my waves, rather than watching other surfers surf.
As I drove to Rincon I was talking to Reez about the Mavericks event as she was volunteering for it. Arriving at Rincon, the effect of the monster swell was already hitting the area as I noticed the set of the surfers were different than the usual, almost all of them were gearing up with short boards.
I too took out the shorter board (7’6) and headed down the slope. Unlike the usual Rincon that I know, a lot of small white stuffs to get through then to the middle, I had to duck through a few faces. But by the time I thought I reached the middle part, I was already washed down further south. The current was very strong this day.
Since I was not that familiar with the area, I just took one ride and paddled back in. Needless to day, I was bummed out.
I drove further south into Ventura County and tried a spot but this spot was also interlaced with very strong southerly current that I had a hard time keeping myself at a spot, in addition the wave faces were pretty poor, so I was bummed out again and left.
Went back, picked up my wife at the motel and spent the rest of the afternoon and evening in LA.