So, this morning, I had to go out because if I miss this morning, it won't
be until this Friday at Rincon as the waves are going to kick ass tomorrow
with over 20 ft swell size being predicted.
The right cheek is still swollen up, so it is tender and soft; nice set of
words to use for a Safeway Select T-Bones. I pull up the rash guard... very
carefully. The neck went through fine. I put on a hood then a helmet (yes).
No problem there. So I am back to almost being a normal surfer. Speaking of
this, on the Mavericks video "Whipped" that Erick Nelson (Mavfilms
production owner) gave me, there is a scene that Jeff Clerk broke a rib and
he was now all bundled up in a full torso cast, and he was going out. So I
think all surfers know where to put the priority.
This morning, the condition wasn't that great. The standard chest-high
semi-closeouts. But I did catch one nice inside reform and I powered through
the face being able to "power the turns" and that was really great ride. I
don't really like big waves, but more like to make lots of turns on smaller
waves with a shorter board, so things like this make me really happy.
The Philosophical Corner:
This injury has been very interesting. Let's recap some comments.
My Mon: "I don't want you to surf. It is extremely dangerous. Quit surfing
as soon as possible. Also cut your hair and when are you going to be
promoted to the VP of your company?" ( I got the exact same comment 4 years
ago, except that please globally replace the word surfing with Motorcycle).
Wendy's Mon: "..."
Surfer buddy 1: "Bummer man! Good thing it did not get your eye."
Surfer buddy 2: "Hey that's nothing, look at my..."
Two other buddies: (no responses)
Non surfer co-worker 1: "Surfing, right?"
Co-worker 2 who never read any e-mail from anyone: Uh... What? What
happened? When? (e-mail sent last Thursday to contact me at home if a
server software craps out during the day.)
So reflecting these set of circumstances, I have been pondering what all
these responses mean?
Version 1: Manabu Beach, you are so dumb to go surfing and get hurt. Look
what I've told you. Why don't you just go to work, don't let yourself and me
look bad, do what they tell you, go home, retire happily and safely, then
meet me there.
Version 2: "The State of California has determined that surfing contains
hazardous..." (place the sticker on every board you own).
Version 3: Hey, it is part of being alive and participating in an active and
healthy adventure to make it worthwhile. Don't let other people stop you,
Version 4: Hey look at the Manabu Beach dude. He writes all sorts of surfing
advice and solutions on his web site, but look at him, he does not know what
the hell he is doing being hurt all the time like that!
I do hope, though, many reader of my column has learned some lesson from
this incident. I did, painfully.
Approach the board only from the back!