Today is probably the first day I felt being almost completely back in business. I got up early, and did not fiddle with the computer and went straight to the beach and in the water by 7:30 a.m. The sun is coming up at 7:10 so that’s one more reason to get started early. Got up, checked and there was no wind, clear sky with all different kinds of clouds like some impressionist paintings, and nice clean beach. Also saw some familiar faces like Jeff and his friends. We don’t engage in any lengthy conversations on the water but we are just so happy to see each other on the water, and back to the stokes of catching waves, almost like we are back to surfing organisms.
Today the period has gone up a bit to 17 seconds and so the faces gotten a bit bigger and also steeper today, but that’s when shorter boards get more fun. But still I had problems catching consistently. I would really be a bit less fearful in catching these steeper waves, as when I do catch it, I can ride them, but often I just give up and pass up the chance.
I am going to surf both this weekend days, and I am really stoked about it.
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