Thursday, February 12, 2004

Session 4014: Dawn Patrol... Finally scored some closeouts!

Last night, while taking a bath (it is actually my daily ritual at the end of a day), I was reading the latest "Surfer" magazine. Since I am not all that interested in reading about professional surfers, due to an envy, and also no hope of becoming one, I usually skip right over to the "Surf Tip", and "Design Forum" sections, then flip back to other pages that interest me.
Anyhow, in this issue, the Surf Tip section is all about Dawn Patrol. It goes on to talk about how your life needs to commit to the lifestyle... Things that I brought up often on my WaveLog were there... like "Don't play with computer to check waves", "You don't pick people up nor wait to be picked up.", "giving up bars and discos", and it was interesting to read about the philosophy of becoming a "dawn patroller." So I suggest if you are interested in this, either borrow a copy from a bra or buy one and read about it. 
The article stoked me even more to get out early. I packed tomorrow's cloths in to the duffle bag, tied down the board on the care and went to bed.
So, this morning, I was promptly at the beach at 7:00 a.m., and it was already quite bright. So I am going to see if I can do 6:50 tomorrow. There are always some committed faces, like Jeff from San Francisco who show up almost anytime I am there. A few minutes of chats as we transform to surfer animals, and we all disappear into the crimson Pacific.
Morning is really a magical time, as the color of the sky and the wave change by the minute, and it is a solitary quiet space I call it "my own" where I can either relax or contemplate the life, distant friends, new algorithms I am going to develop, or think about what to write on my log today.
Back to surfing...
One of the things I have been working on is to ride the closeouts... well sort of. So today finally I was able to ride on top of the breaking white section all the way. Not much turning I could do, but it was quite a bit of challenge to stay inside the beating whites. That made me really happy.
Though the rest of the time, it was the usual either too much or too little power kind of a day.

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