Thursday, February 05, 2004

Session 4007: Finally Some Good Beach Break Surfing

I was very hopeful since yesterday, as the weather finally cleared out for
the first time this week. As I woke up this morning a clear moon was on the
western sky telling me that we are all ready for this morning. I waited for
the Sun to come up, and then stop by at a local coffee shop to pick up a
coffee. The sun is now up in the sky, no cloud and no wind. such a nice day.

The ocean was calm and my favorite size shoulder level breaks sets were
coming every 3-4 minutes, and they were somewhat thicker and slower so there
was a plenty of time to take off. The first dip into the water was very
cold. This is the bad part of surfing. there is a moment of painful
adjustment to become a marine mammal as the water seeps through the rubber.

Today, I felt myself being a bit rusty. Especially there were some lefts
that I tried to get into but totally lost them a few times... But I scored a
few good ones, and my bottom turn was starting to come back to where it left
off several weeks ago. After suffering through a week-long cold, every
stroke of paddle was more exhausting than before. It is amazingly so easy to
get out of shape, and so quickly.

You should have been there!

STOKE Level: 7


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