We had a great afternoon session in Santa Cruz. We are always afraid of the
crowd when we go to SC, but due to the "small" day, that wasn't a problem.
Most "locals" decided to not to go out, I guess. The condition wasn't too
bad though as we were getting good chest to shoulder size wave faces
I had a phenomenal ride that lasted from the "outside" all the way to the
"inside..." probably lasted for 30 seconds. Plus so many other fun rides
that I lost the count... at least more than a dozen. My hard work on "ups
and downs" has just started to pay off. If I lose a speed, I point the board
more straight down and then push the board with my knees as I turn the board
back up again. Of course, the waves are breaking at a slow-motion speed so I
had a plenty of time looking behind to see which way the power is moving.
Since last week, I had been in a short board and beach break mode so it
really was a nice change of pace fighting the waves, ducking under to get
out with a certain "death" by closeouts. This was like being in a heaven. It
is so relaxing by getting on a longboard; paddle totally relaxed, and taking
off gradually. People in Santa Cruz have this treasure.
To add to this, Reez, Aimee, and Jocelyn shared the breaks that added more
element of fun under clear blue sky and no wind to speak of. Everyone was
got a bit chilly towards the end of the session. I had a helmet (a hood
underneath), gloves, and booties plus the hollow fiber rash guard (sweater).
You should have been there!
Stoke Level 8