Tuesday, February 10, 2004

Session 4012: More "Eaten by the Closeouts"

Man, sometimes it is hard to keep up with my own commitments, but here goes. The WaveLog for the session 4012. No, I have not been surfing 4012 times. It just means that it is the year 04 and I was only out 12 times! SHAME, Shame, shame...! I need some catching up to do "on" myself.
The Mystery that I Need To Solve:
Sometimes, I just don't get it. I get there at 7:15 and some people are all wet with their boards in their arms, getting out and taking shower. The Sunrise is at 7:10, folks! So would that mean... allowing that they have been surfing at the crack of the dawn, for just 20 minutes. Yesterday, I surfed for a mere 30 minutes, and I thought it was like a bird taking a bath (a Japanese expression on doing something very quickly).  So, if you are the one doing that I need your version of the story here! The only other possibility is that they either have a night-vision or their sunrise is, for whatever the reasons, different than mine. May be the whole world now has turned Quantum on me, and that's OK, because that means I can personally create any size waves just by looking at the beach.
Back to My Surfing;
OK, you probably did not understand the Quantum bit. That's Okay, let's touch on that subject on my next session log.
So how was it this morning; you ask... The tide was still a bit too low. I was paddling, paddling and paddling, and a guy next me stands right up and there, a huge sand-bar on the bottom. Duh!  Duh is right...!  I could have walked all the way. But I am being forced to use the ducking technique to get through, so I am getting better and better at it. My 7'0 is a lot easier to both push in and push back that the ducking is becoming so much easier. Of course, once you get out, I'd need to take off (and some better people were taking off even in these low tide, "what I call as" closeout conditions!
Did I get to ride on my 7'0? Yes, indeed. I did score one nice ride but the rest was the standard dumpy crashes plus waves and waves of white stuff.
I am starting to doubt now if or I ever get to do this year's my resolution of doing a complete "roundhouse cutback." Well, one thing for sure, nobody is sticking a gun at my back to do it, and of course, that is the fun of being a recreational surfer.
Let's see what tomorrow will bring!

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