With the update of my new web site and also an evening engagement, finally I am getting around to write WavLOG from yesterday.
Since Dog Haus is in a hiking trip and not surfing this weekend, I decided to call Surf Doggie to come out to a local spot. I did check a few other local spots but this was the only one that had any sort of waves. We were actually looking for the improvement in the waves on an outgoing tide so by the time the noon time comes around we got some nice waves, and that's kind of what happened.
I surfed a while with Surf Doggie for the good first half of the session on the south end of the beach, and it was really fun. The long boarders were winning, but I did take out my favorite epoxy fish board, and I was not doing too shabby, plus there were a few weekend-only warriors so I just wait in the big inside and see if they spill and if they did not, that's their waves and if they do, there is still a plenty of time for me to catch the wave. This is kind of the option that I am starting to really take advantage of.
It was very smooth kind of waves and plenty of time to play with turns. After a while the S break started to get really crowded, so I decided to leave the waves to them and walked to the north end, which is also a lot of fun. The north end is more of a short board territory and already several people and groms were at the waves. Smaller but much faster waves are fun to catch and I am really enjoying the feel of that initial pumping feel as I flick up on the board and get going. These are really fun short board practice weaves and I wish there is always a place and situation like this year around, then my short boarding skill should improve even more. Caught countless number of waves and finally I had to give up because I was so tired.
In the evening, we went to eat Ramen at Halu in
Oh, and this is the shaper he uses to produce his boards: http://www.psc-longboard.com