Tuesday, July 19, 2005

Session 5154

Session 5154

My bro is back from a week in CR, and I am really happy that he is back, because that means I can surf outside any beaches I pick. He is just amazing because he got so much paddling power that he would just make his own sets if he wants. I?d take off on the same wave and he will take off and I?d be left behind even if I got 6?6 and he?s got a 6?5 Merrick.

This is the morning when Bank Right would advise us to go to this ?Sometimes? beach. Today he is right because the NW swell of 4-5 ft 9 seconds is the main reason we picked this break. The morning fog means it would be glassy albeit we?d risk for not seeing a darn thing. But the fog did lift high in the sky. That?s like a sunny day for us HMB local surfers.

This was clearly a ?long board? day that means that I am supposed to be surfing on a long board, and because I am a bit lazy to load a 9 footer on top of my car, I would take out the 6?6 fish out and have a prayer that I?d do as beast as I can.

And it was a real fun day. Just me and my buddy just sharing a mile stretch of a beach; not quite like the IKEA color condition like the other day without any fogs.

Again with no pressures to perform, I just surfed curving the line as I pleased, and it was fun, and that would make a best surfer having the most fun.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Man-O That was a great day, even though the waves were small. I have really enjoyed becoming friends with you and surfing together almost daily. You have the stoke! I believe the best surfer is the one having the most fun and you definitely epitomize having fun in the surf. And you made the finals of the classic!! I look forward to surfing wiht you as many days as possible before our move, and surfing together even afterwards. Your friendship means a lot to me and I appreciate you being a sounding board for some of my complaints. Surfing has definitely become more fun now that we often surf together. Thanks,
Your Bro in the water