Session 5140

This morning, I went to Linda Mar and when I arrived the beach was a mess with a full of fireworks. It looked more like a aftermath of a war zone than a nice clean beach to surf with. There were already local crew working on cleaning the beach, and I jumped in and collected 3 large garbage bag-full of trash in about 15-minute time. Then I went in to the water.

The tide was super low when I had to go, but on the outside there were some surfable waves that would come just before or after close out sets. It was also a bit of work to get out as there were just waves after waves of white water mess. While I can duck through them, it is still a lot of work to get out when I have to do that every 5 seconds and it just does not seem to stop. On a day like this, I'd just sit tight and wait, standing in the water, until there is a lull and then I'd dash out.

As much as I dislike these messy situations to get out, I also love riding them. Messy days create challenging waves. The lines are not clean well defined, instead they happen at all different parts of rides and connecting these lines with turns and cut backs are really a lot of fun.

As usual, the current was rather strong moving towards the north end where the wave tends to get bigger, and today, a bit more of a mess. So I enter a bit further south, paddle up and out that would carry just at the second where the things gets bigger and I ride those in, then walk back for more. That just worked out really nicely for me today. My last ride also had so much speed that when I connected to the inside section, I was still on a rail pushing and gliding against puny knee high wave and still going almost all the way to the beach! So I decided to call that a day while I was ahead.

It was really a tiring session though with all that fight with the white water but was fun.

By the time, I got out of the water; the people have already cleaned the beach nearly completely. It is really nice to know that there really are people who care, and also to contrast this, there were several surfers who don't even pick up a piece.