Thursday, July 07, 2005

Session 5142

Story on the wave was similar to yesterday. Just a lot of mixed swells and chops. Took the 6'6 out again and there were some interesting pop up waves that I caught. Due to the changes in the company, I will be busy time for some time through the end of the year at least. I will need to switch the gear again to focus on early DPs at LM.

I am working on working the tail section of the board a much more effectively in the past several sessions. I am still amazed when I push the tail so much hard and the board is sliding down the very steep part of the wave with basically front 2/3 of the board completely out of the water, yet, I am still somewhat in control of the board. The board is really loose at this stage so it is actually easy to make a turn, but then I am still a bit scared to do that. But I take a courage and make a slight turn, then the rail would start to bite the wall of the wave, and then I can start to apply the pressure on the board more evenly and then back again to the tail of the board to set up for another turn. If and when this happens, then the speed will kick in, I can make further turns to add to the speed.

One thing that I have been thinking is to really relax at all situations, and that seems to bring more success in rides. When I am ready to take off, I let myself know to just relax, give just a bit more time before I get up etc., and don't even really worry about standing up so much.

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