Tuesday, July 12, 2005

Session 5146-5147: Picking Lesser of Evils

Sometimes, or more often than sometimes, I will be forced take the lesser of the evils when it come to surfing. In the summer it can mean taking gusty onshore wind in the afternoon, or take low tide in the morning, because I must fit in my daily dose of the ocean and stay fit, this morning I had to take the low tide situation before hitting the desk.

I got in slightly before 7 am this morning, and it was very obvious that I am going into much "less than the optimum" condition where the waves were just disorganized and basically closing out most of the time. In this kind of the situation, the challenge is to find a small window of opportunity and spot that would break in some shape or form, so there is a lot of paddling around, or even totally getting out of the water observe and re-assess the position. I've done both, but in the usual 90 minutes of surfing, I could only had about 2 rides that were successful even in my own standard. The upsides from this session were that I got to practice a lot of paddling and ducking through, and also I went ahead and practiced taking off even the waves were closing down fast. So I not have much to report other than that from this morning.

When I got out of work this afternoon, the sun was fully out in the coast and the wind was not as bad as yesterday so I actually ended up doing the second session of the day in Half Moon Bay. Now, however, the waves were messier than this morning, but I tried to get in anyway and again, it ended up more of a getting out practice than anything else. The waves were closing out at so shallow bottom that even ducking under I was just thrown in very turbulent water and often I could not get through the waves. It was really a mess, and I could not ride anything this afternoon.

From this respect, this is another one of these things that makes surfing so really difficult because even I am equipped with all sort of swell, wind and tide data, there just are times I cannot tell what is really going to happen.

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