So I do read these pathetic forecasts on the past weeks. But F them.
If you look around, there are places and breaks to surf. They ain't puny either. We just have our eyes peeled, go in, paddle up and if that dose not work, walk up, and if still that ain't workin, get off the wet suit and drive up or down.
This morning, I did come to a break that I wanted, and it was awfully a lot of fun. Just one of those breaks that only happen at the corner of a beach but elsewhere is just flat as the Great Plains. The Spanish explorers said it right "El Rincon" that means "The Corner" where the wave power gathers and dissipate at once.
This evening I was having some (or several) good ale with two (or three that include my wife) of my dear surf buddies and they won't half believe there are these corner conditions in our area. But I was there and with the accumulating sand, it was more like a sand box than a good corner but it was simulating a reef.
Like Rincon or the Trestles where it was shallow for quite a far out. Plus it was so shallow all over that if I screw up duck diving getting out, I hit the bottom and sands are in my eyes, in my wet suit and just all over!
As I get out the chest to shoulder break pop in front of me. So I'd carefully press the board down and get out not to hit the bottom.
Waves were kind of funny mushy pop up waves. I try to catch and I'd almost not take off and one more paddle stroke while I am already on top of the board ready to be left behind, then the wave just explodes behind my butt, and then I am on. Once I am on, the "fish" does the wonder and take me on these funny rides sometimes reforming like 3 times then I will ride "up" into the returning backwash, sometimes the front and back wash waves collide so hard that I get thrown up in the air a bit before I come to complete halt.