Monday, July 18, 2005
Session 5153: Even more relaxed!
It was a perfect sunny morning for a mellow long boarding kind of a session; totally glassy, sunny and warm morning with occasional swells building smoothly into hip to chest level rollers with enough wait in between to paddle out and catch the next. Caught several some relaxed fun waves, both lefts and rights just gliding with a rail without making any drastic turns. It was so mellow and uncrowded that I finally took off my helmet to go surfing. (Well, I was not killed in surfing today, but my wife will kill me shortly after I hit Send) So nobody knew I was even there!