Session 5144

I was going to surf the Jetty then help out the beach cleanup this morning, but the sets looked dismal as I went and passed by, so I went straight up to Montara. Looked like the entire local LM and OB regular crew was at it already and probably it was that flat further north.

I surfed the south end for a while. It was kind of a condition similar to the Surf Classic contest two seasons ago. It was about chest high, I'd say but still there is enough Montara power to the wave that catching the waves from the outside was really fun, and could take long rides. My SurfTech Fish 6'6 performed well on this type of condition (but since I did not take out the 6'3 Rusty Piranha I would not know if that did well.) While it was crowded, it was a lone session for me since I did not know anyone from the lineup.

There were some decent long boarders out and one thing that bothers about some of these people is that they fixate on you on the ride and as a result they come right at you. This seems to be the theme no matter where I go, and tend to be in some specific age and sex group that this happens. Either they want to me to know that I am looking at them or what. "Hey bro! Look at and look for your line, man! Don't look at me. I know, I know you look cool!"

After a while the wave started to die down, or at least I though they did, so I walked all the way to the south of the north stairs, and while the waves broke, they capped out immediately. There was one "unused" section in the middle of the beach, and I tried to paddle out there but I thought I was caught in a bit of a rip and side current and spooked out a bit, since I was waiting in the lineup, my position was changing really fast. So I decided to paddle back in. I always have this issue with any type of current. This would not have been an issue if my local buddy would be here. I am rather convinced that part of the reason I don't get better at surfing sooner is due to this timid nature of mine. I even know that that's the reason why I am not a CEO of a company at this day and age. That's always having been the theme of life with me. I am not saying that I wish I was a CEO, and I am happily accepting basically a "worker bee" status all my career and instead chose to devote more time in surfing and music rather than getting a Mileage Plus Premier 10K membership year after year. But, I again, digressed a bit.

Back to the ocean!

I decided and sit and watch how other people did, and everyone was just taking off and then not pickup up any speed at all and just wiping out. Not boasting my abilities but there were some waves I thought I would do better than this guy or the other; "Oh, man, you could have turned left right there and you'd kept that wave!", "Gosh, you could just put more weight on the board and the board would not have slipped away like that!" So it was very educational for me to just sit and watch for a while. Then my ADS started to kick in, so I got sick and tired of just watching (though most people don't know that I can pay attention to 2 or 3 things at the same time, so yes, as far as my high school teach's training manual says, I got an ADS, and that's fine, that just an in-fashion label people use against us when they can't deal with it. [And you all know I can't spell jack either])

Back to Ocean again!

I paddled further north and the power started to resume for a length. There were some really good surfers out there at this section, but I think I did some good damage right there. There are really fun "fish" waves to me, really soft so easy to take off on and make a lot of turns on the face. They were really fun, and it was sure crowded for the Montara standards but I had a fair share of the waves. Just take a look at the line up, observe who are the movers, shakers, and snakers and who are not, and position myself accordingly between the right types of people. First of the set comes, I let the snaker with the Fish go, then the second set builds, two others start, and I am in the middle, I know they'd both just wipe out both left and right of me, and the wave is all mine!

Then I thought I was just tired, and I started to walk back to the south end where I parked. Then I saw the south end starting to throw some fun waves again. So I had to go in, 3 more good rides, and I was finally done. It was 11:30, and I blew off the beach cleanup this morning (but I did collect 3 bag-full of fireworks on the 5th!)