Friday, July 08, 2005

Session 5143

When I do a DP at Linda Mar, there is an elderly man and a lady who are almost always there. Actually once in a while one of them is not there, and I often worry, but then they always have come back. This morning I walked to up them and jokingly try to hand my Fish and said, "Hey, wanna give it a shot?" And the man said, "Yes, I used to." And he went on and told me that he is from OZ and used be a merchant marine, and traveled around the world with his motorcycle and a board abord his ship. He surfed around the world, including China. That's something. He also said that his mother who is in the 90's surfed until recently. How amazing! The stoke continues from one generation to another and from one part of the world to another.

In terms of surfing, this morning we had a very low tide and low swell too, so it was a bit of a challenge to find surfable waves. This was in contrast with the PM session yesterday where there were a lot more mess. I tried the middle part of the beach for a while; caught some waves, and then I walked up to the north side and surfed there for a while. It was a bit frustrating to see the waves that were almost ready to "happen", and if I had time for the tide to build up a bit, it would have been really fun chest to shoulder level waves.

I continued to study and explored riding the tail part of the board on the waves today, and I am finding that really interesting. Some of the changes that is happening is that the board used to jet out ahead of me when I tried to weigh the tail but now I am starting to ride the wave in that position, and that is very encouraging to me right now. I will continue to practice this for a while. Practicing this on smaller waves is really nice because I can time it so that I would try to take off as late as possible into the wave without being penalized for a failure. Once I can do this very consistently then I can go for bigger size waves and try. Then the next thing in my agenda is to smoothly transition from that position to the initial turn into the wave, again consistently. Nailing this consistency at any wave size and shape is really some thing that I am working on very hard right now.

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