Wednesday, June 29, 2005

Session 5133

I was planning to hit Montara on the way home today, but then I saw Linda Mar firing rather unusually nicely, so I said "What the heck, let's get in there." The parking lot was already 90% full, and it was like finding a spot at Stanford Shopping center day before Christmas on high tide. But I did find a slot, so why complain? The initial part of the session was rather sweet with occasional good powerful (enough) sets rolling in, and I had some really nice rides. I was enjoying my own inside peak. Then more people started to arrive and at the same time the peaks started to happen in smaller patches, and that was basically the end of the story.

Today I took out my 7'5, which I though was the right answer at first, but then after a while I was not taking off right, nose buried, diving under and then some minor hold-downs. So I really need more courage to stay in the pack and take the waves, but I must admit, that's something I don't like to do very much.

I am still keeping a bad habit of surfing all the way to the shore. There was one San Onofre moment when I jumped off the board and there were a pile of cobble stones under the water, which I was totally unexpected, and landed knee cap down. That was a bit painful. No damages, but could have been worse.

On the way back when I passed by Montara it was totally fogged in. Glad I have chosen Linda Mar this afternoon.

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