In just a day, from no wetsuit surfing to "booties" and "gloves" surfing again.
Speaking of no booties, in SD, I went completely bootless and was not slipping at all. Also when I went and got the new fins, they gave me the Sticky Bumps Blue wax, and that's the same we use up here, so if I am going to do bootless here, I ought to get even softer wax, like the Sex Wax Purple.
This morning was a one of the rare occasion in which I could walk to the beach and surf. Even though I do live within a walking distance of a beach in Half Moon Bay, it is rather rare that very good break occurs, but with some S swells a few ft and 17 seconds on the average that was a plenty of water pushing from the ground. Plus it was just extremely sunny out and no wind, so it was just a perfect type of a surfing day, but the waves was a bit stronger for me though not big in size today, and I could not have satisfactory rides.
Even though this is the closest beach to my home, I actually know very little about this break, and being in an unfamiliar situation makes it one notch more difficult to catch the waves. I actually surfed in San Diego more often than here. So when I tried to catch the waves, I was not just getting the enough speed or something, and soon I a lot of water gashes from behind me, get held down for a bit and it was all over. There were just several of those and while it was fun, I?d wished that I could have caught more waves. Of course my local buddies were doing well on those, so I really should have paddled out further with them. But the peak they were on had already been shared by 5-6 other really hot guys so I shied away from that peak. I was about the worst surfer in the whole pack of people out there this morning, and the level was really high.
So there still is a long way to get up there. But I did take part in the Summer Solstice International Surfing Day. Now, the days will get shorter each day, kind of sad isn't it?