Tuesday, June 14, 2005

Session 5118: More adventures in close outs

6:45 AM: I stopped at the Jetty for a few minutes, but it looked rather small on a low tide, so I headed out to Linda Mar beach. Of course, I looked at Montara, but it was already a jumbled up mess plus close to or more than twice overhead set going. No way, I would not go in there all by myself. Not because I may not catch the waves, but I might get pulled out on a strong rip current and would be a hell to get back in if I had to paddle back. I am still very afraid of that, especially when riding shorter boards.

7:00 AM Arrived at the Linda Mar and it was also a full of just white closed-out mess, but I was not ready to get back to the Jetty as I am racing the clock to hit the office before 9:00. There was one guy getting ready and another may be two people in the water at the south end. Surfing any point north of the parking lot would also have been a huge battle with the close outs, and would not be fun.

Though it was closed out, when I paddled out at the south end of the beach, it was not too bad. This happens sometimes, hidden behind the mound of white water sets are some quite ridable waves, and especially as I paddled further and further out, it gotten more ridable. I also waited out and there are period when the ocean calms down a bit and reveal some ridable waves. This also seems to be a sign that the situation is improving when the tide gets a bit higher and when the time passes. Plus when there are overhead size close outs that are coming from the outside, I just sit tight inside and wait for the waves to reform and they are just perfectly fun ridable, and even rippable waves.

So it was actually fun. I was able to get up on just about every wave I went for and rode a good number of them practicing a lot of cut back turns where I am starting to act more determined or committed (but not forceful) on each segment of the moves. Ones I did not ride are mainly the ones that closed out right when I took off, and I was just in the middle of the white water bouncing up and down rather hard. Kind of fun too!

A day like this also allows me to really burn a lot of calories getting out and riding. When I finish riding, I am breathing fast and hard. When paddling out is more like a long uphill hike, riding the waves is like dashing 100-m at full speed.

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