The wind has finally started to ease today. This morning was a bit of a squeeze for time for surfing so I went in this afternoon at LM. I actually should have done the Gray Whale Cove, but that place is so inconsistent that I opted for a "safer" option.
The waves were still disorganized but the place had some power from the outside and I saw one long boarder just having such a good time! I wish I brought my 9'0 Takayama and I could probably have had a lot of fun. But these days, my focus is to learn how to take off on "all" waves with a short board. This, of course, is a quite a callenge to me but nevertheless, I did catch several steep take-off waves.
There were several waves that I did not stand up quickly enough and I ended up belly boarding down good half of the way. This basically means that I am still whimping out for not getting up on the board and getting a hold of the board control. Now, if a surf teacher will tell me that, I would talk back to her, and tell her that it was going too fast for me. But that's exactly what I got to do, be up on the board "as soon as possible!"
And that's basically where I am at this point of time. I need to be in the control of the board as soon as possible.
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