It was already 7:30 in the morning and I was a bit relaxing half dozing off thinking that I would take it easy today, but then the familiar ring tone on my Pocket PC started to play at a distance in another room. "Oh, man! It's my buddy again, what does he want, I am sure he will leave me a message." So I got up a few minutes later and checked the message and sure enough it was my buddy. I was thinking that he would want to get out to the Jetty or something, but now that he knows I am the local cheap version of Mark Sponsler and he was already telling me that it is "Blowing out there." There goes a local surf option, because if is blowing here then basically there is no other places right near by that isn't blowing.
Now I am wide awake, and also the sun is fully out (this is to mean no fog), I was a bit stoked to drive down to SC, and turned out that he wanted to go too, so I did another drive back to Manresa because I know the town breaks won't be happening for sure.
We kind of lucked out as we did start out at 9:30 or so at Manresa beach (again) this morning as the wind was still mellow, then by 11:30, the wind started to pick up.
We were catching ton of waves on small beach breaks.
I really like to surf with him because he has been at it for dozen or more years and he does have a nice smooth nice style of ripping, much like his personality, and he also share one very important aspect of surfing with me that is about how much we agree on catching waves. We are both fortunate to be local to many breaks but then we also know a lot of people who just don't go out when the condition is not optimum. But we are different in that department; we just go for anything from hip high condition at the Jetty to 15 seconds 8 ft days at Montara, and he will look after me on bigger days and gives me a lot of encouragements, and as a result of it, we got to share some of the best waves I have been.
Another aspect of my buddy is that he would not let me alone! Just when I get a bit tired of surfing (yes, that happens to even to me) and let my mind wander away away from it, there is either a call or phone message waiting asking me to get out and catch more waves! But that's what really a bro is for. We all share the waves and the board and the wax and squeeze our time to go and surf!
So that brings to the point to me, it is always good to get to know the people who are better than you, and there is always something to learn from the buddy, and also help him give some of my new surfer stoke power.
1 comment:
That day was so fun, I love going to Manresa and Santa Cruz. Even though many spots are crowded, there are still quite a few uncrowded options. And the water and air temps are usually so nice. Let's do it again sometime. You seem to improve with every go out. Keep the stoke!!
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