Wednesday, June 01, 2005

Session 5104 and 5015

Another day with double sessions today with the sun already up by 6:30 AM, and not setting until 8:30 PM. The morning session at Linda Mar beach was an OK session with lot of close outs and not much to catch like yesterday, but I did venture out and did catch a few waves. I was again concentrating on catching every size of wave using the 7?0 board, but after not having so much rides, I decided to head in and called my buddy J for the routine surf report exchange. He is also connected with other local surfers so I feed the news and he will feed me the news from other surfers too, but we agreed to surf again at 6:30 at the Jetty since I said I had fun in the afternoon and while the wind is going to be strong, it is going to be the side shore direction so we thought it would be OK.

Throughout the day, I checked the wind condition, and it did not look too bad and also the NW swell was already building up to 11 ft at 9 seconds so we know some of that will spill into the Jetty wrapping around the Pillar Point, beyond which is the famous Mavericks, as we all know.

When I arrived, sure enough there were good chest to head high range breaks happening and some good surfers were still ripping. I also got my 6?6 fish back from a co-worker surfer who was borrowing it from me for some time.

I must say that the riding quality of the fish is so much different from the 7?0 that I used this morning. One thing with the fish is that it is really good on straight rides against the wall and it just hug the wall if I get in the wall correctly after the take off, I had some of the longest rides again with it. It seems to like to be ridden more on even weight distribution than needing to turn and create more speed. In that way, it has a long board type ride quality to it. On the 7?0 it requires a lot of turning and pushing through the tail, which I even did not realize well until very recently.

So this PM, I was catching so many waves that I could not believe, and with a more confidence in taking off, I was able to get into the waves that I thought would not be possible before, and I am still working up to the level where better surfers are catching the waves. With all that I might finally be able to join the highly competitive lineups at the Jetty by the breakwater, or places like outside Rincon or the SC Pleasure Point on a decent condition day and take off on waves with more even skill level than the rest of the people. I have been there many times, but I know I was completely out of league, and it was very obvious to me and others. Today though I feel I still need more work to get there, but now at least I fell like I am moving towards in a concrete way.

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