This morning I headed to LM since I had a short session window before hitting the office. I thought that the waves were decent but I had a bit of difficulty finding waves that were more suitable for short boarding. It was rather thick or not as organized as I wished. I did catch several waves, but the quality of the ride was a bit disappointing, probably due to the low tide situation. Towards the end of the session, the waves started to clean up a bit, so it would have been better if I could stay longer.
This morning, I was caught in a rather huge rip current, and since Ren has posted a message about the rip current being one of the most life threatening situation in any beaches, I must report this on this log. As I have been experienced in the ocean, it was not a major deal, however it was kind of a surprise and also a hassle to get back in, and should this have happened a couple of years ago, yeah, the panic level on me would have been 10 times worse.
One thing about the rip current that I am now used to is that it can be strong at times but then it would be less at another time. While if you'd think about it, it is obvious but there always is a period when incoming sets are huge and frequent and there are some lull period.
What happened was this, I wanted to get out and I did find a rip are and I rode it out. As usual with a rip area, the waves do not break but it was really a rough ride out with lots of large ripples to get over, typical of rip area. What I did not realize was that the size of the rip and I was paddling out like, "Oh, finally I am in the rip." But the when I turned back I was way to far out with the buildings and cars so much smaller now that I know I have ventured out more the distance that I was comfortable with, and there were about 5 or so people in the lineup and at the point the rip was still going out.
Now I had to cross this current and get back in, and that took a little while, since there was really nothing to ride but just a lot of water moving around me. It was not an easy feeling as I just wanted to catch a few more rides then get to the office for the scheduled meeting and the time was running out. If I had more time, I would have just relaxed more and wait it out until the next lull of the waves. Luckily the sets have died down the current started to ease, and I could quickly paddle back.
As for the rides, it was an OK day. I did not have much to write about.
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