The life is a full of ironic turns that you make. This morning, I was up early to help out our east coast business partners, and as a result the work has stretched from 5:30 to around 7:30, normally my sweet spot for DP during the summer months. As I passed by Montara that looked very tempting and in fact that's where my local buddy went this morning. Cell phones and emails have really revolutionaries in inter-surfer communications there days. In conjunction with what I have on my hands with the measured data, I also get fed with lot of live data too.
At any rate, I had a short session this morning as I had a long day ahead at work, so I had to cut the session rather short to just under an hour. But the waves were phenomenally good. It was just one of the dozen days out of the year where the waves get really nice, smooth paddle outs and A-frame breaks popping all over the places! It was more of a kind of day that "long boarders rule." And in fact many long boarders were catching tons of waves and paddling swiftly back catching double the number than a developing short boarder like me.
So I my short session, I must have caught countless number of waves, and with more improvements in my take off technique, I had so much success today. Though, I must say, the wave yesterday was much more challenging and in terms of more ripping type moves, it was definitely the yesterday I had more fun. On waves like today, it was softer and mushier that getting a good speed on the wave was a bit difficult. Of course, if you were a professional level surfer, you'd rip on them too. But that still is not the case with me. The waves were "pockety" too but rapidly lost the power. I guess this is one of the differences between the SC waves and the Pacifica waves. The SC waves will keep you going even the waves are thick.
Even though I had a short session, the condition like today can be really tiring because I had to paddle rather hard for the waves in order to take off, and I'd also paddle out for more waves more frequently.
This weekend: Look for me in San Diego area waters. I am brining in the 6'6' fish with red on the bottom and yellow on the deck, plus a dorky helmet (all the time!).