Session 5111

As I was finishing last evening's session, it looked like the wind was getting smaller and the waves becoming a bit smoother, so I was hopeful about this morning's condition. Last night, I had some other things from my work in mind and this morning I woke up at 4:30 as I found out some key thing, so I was working on that stuff. So I was able to have an early start.

On weekdays when I have to go to the office, I usually stop at Jetty or Linda Mar on the way. I'd love to surf at Montara or the Cove but if there are nobody else around that spooks me out thinking about if I got in some kind of a trouble. I like to ride the fish but I don't want to be chewed by a big fish. You know, today I was thinking about Linda Mar. Linda Mar has some stigma attached to it, and whenever people utter the phrase Linda Mar it usually comes with a word "but" too, like. "Hey where do you surf, man!", "Um, ah, Linda Mar, but?" I really think that people ought to surf the waves they can regardless of where. Even Montara or OB can have some nice mellow beginner days, and in fact, that's when I venture out to these places. There really is no need for me to surf 2 x overhead waves right especially when I cannot even rip on shoulder high breaks, and furthermore, there are better surfers than me who do and can rip in the same small waves I frequent. So presently I need to get there before I think about outside OB or big Montara days.

If you have been following my log, you know that I have been working on more solid take-off technique for the good 4-5 months now. It is not that I could not catch waves, but I was not catching good ones, and finally there has been a sign of improvement. As a result of it, I am now taking off into situations that result in more speed and power. That's great but then the next weakness is showing up, that's not getting up on the board fast enough and getting into the control. Now I continue to build the take off more solid, I need to build the next part of it.

Today there were some good powered waves and I was taking off more solidly than I have been able to, and there were many waves in which I just did not stand up fast enough. Should I have been able to I could have set the rail and do some turns, but I just don't yet have the speed to execute these steps yet. This is, in no doubt, the first stage into a real ripping, and I did experience a couple of good solid take off and flick-up that I was able to cut back rather solidly without the board coming off under my feet. Instead I felt a decent amount of pressure on my feet and knees. The closest way to describe this would be that you would be one of the Log Rides in SC Boardwalk, but instead of sitting inside of the log, you would stand up at the top and keep standing until it splashes down, and if it makes a turn at the same time, and if you are still standing then that's it.

Once I can get a good speed from a get-go, then I finally would be able to rip continuously for the duration of a ride, and that's where I am aiming for this season.