Friday, June 24, 2005

Session 5128

After I came back form SD, I have not had much luck in finding good waves to ride, and the same theme continued this morning. The tide is your friend and an enemy at the same time. It is an enemy when I had to do a DP and it gets to be a super-low negative tide situation, like this morning. I used to think that tide got nothing much to do with the surf, as I thought that if the tide is lower, then the waves will break further and when it is higher it would break closer or higher to the shore.

But since then I have been to numerous beaches and situations and now I now know that the tide plays an important factor in the surf condition.

So this morning, I had to go to a beach break right at the bottom of the negative tide, and the ocean was draining very fast too, and the waves were just closing out a lot and so it was quite a bit of an effort to find anything that I could ride. There were so many waves that I'd just take off then just a bunch of white water piled up on me from behind not letting me take them, and even my favorite reforms were just powerless mess.

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