Session 5101

Due to other engagements in the afternoon, this morning was a quick local session. With the return of the NW wind swell this morning, it was actually a bit more challenging fun type waves than I have had for the past several days. In the typical summer wind chop mixed swells, the getting out got again more time consuming, but with a shorter board under my chest, I managed to the outside consistently.

The outside waves were breaking at good shoulder to head high range, just the perfect size for me to continue the quest for a better and consistent take-offs and I am please to say that this morning was the first time I have felt some amount of confidence even in these dumpier situations. I think I am getting a bit better at catching the rhythm of finding when the lift up power starts to apply so that I would take advantage of that force to get up on the board. When that works out, even when I thought the waves was rather steep, I can smoothly and rather "quietly" go up and then start to execute the descent. Of course, the sequence after that happens after that is not completely built yet, so I still cannot get immediately onto the wall fast enough.

Better surfers I usually share the waves with do start to rip at this point of time have in no time descended far and further down the line, and would be on a climb line with a cut back or off the lip type move, but now that's the next in my agenda of things to build. One thing for sure for me is that I am not doing is that I am still not aggressive and not trusting the board enough with the motion of causing the speed and turn. I can tell you this because today I got into a one nice line, and for a heck of it, I whack the tail rather strongly to go climb up the line thinking that I would either just slide off the water or stall and wipe out, but what happened instead was that the first the tail held in the water and board basically pivoted up around then the next thing the rail bit the water and the board made a nice upwards gaining the speed! This kind of happened in the past as "an accident" but today I was more fully intending to do it and kind of worked out so that made me really happy.

It was a short session, but with a lot of effort getting out and having had some very satisfactory take offs and turning, I had enough in a 90-minutes session, happily went back home for the afternoon.

Stoke 9!