Thursday, May 26, 2005

Session 5098

To this date, I am continue to be amazed by the literally infinite variety of surf conditions we get, and it is really safe to say every day is different from another, and you really cannot surf the same wave again. This morning, we had a large negative tide at Montara which is not really a good condition for a beach like this one, but the swell height was 3 ft but still going for 10-13 seconds and there was no wind.

Under this type of a situation, small knee to hip high waves were popping up very very slowly, like someone pushing a sheet of carpet on a smooth floor on a slow motion, and the bump in the water start to grow slow like lava flow in Hawaii or something, and then start to break. It was very beautiful to see this. It was definitely not very surfable type of a situation, but since I did not have much time before work, I had to go in, get wet and do the best I can. So I paddled out.

Usually Montara gets really deep really fast but this morning I have experienced something I have never yet: I paddled out about 200 yards out and try to turn around. Then the tail of the board got stuck in the sand. I stood up and it was only about 2 ft deep. There was amazing amount of sand accumulated so much further out! And also the water looked really calm and flat but then once in a while set of waves start to bump up. They were so small that it was hard to catch them, but I did have a few short rides.

No comments: