It has just been the most remarkable weeks here in Half Moon Bay! This W/SW swells have been so consistent. Wind stopped and got so glassy. The waves neither get too big nor too small. They just continue to throw really nice beach break waves. This morning was, of course, no exception, and actually was one of the better condition days among already the best week!
Today the waves become more A-frame and start to throw some nice pockets in the mix, and I was right smack in the center of the pocket that formed. What's really cool about pocket ride to me is that it sets up the initial direction so without much thinking or efforts, I am up on the wall and behind me is mini-tube forming, just like squeezing me out of a tooth paste tube rolling up as you go for a better result.
Then there were bigger set periods and then there were some small set periods and we paddle inside and outside and we try to catch them all. Me and my bros were just flying lefts and right like bees, making cutbacks and pushing our rails solidly against the green walls.
We all brought two boards and we were switching them too as the shapes of the waves change from fun to mushy then fun again. My JC Equalizer 7'5 worked out so nicely too with so much speed and feeling solid against the wave. It is just another one of the magic boards that I have owned. But I love the 7'0 too, with its heavy rocker; bottom turning was just so much fun. And when I finish the rides, I was so much more eager to paddle back fast to catch more waves. This is kind of a day that I wish I could dedicate it from the dawn to the dusk, but all things have to come to an end and back to the real world!
Post a Comment