Session 5097: Summer Wind Swells

With the super low tide and to put out some fire that started to smolder while I was on vacation (and this never ever fails to happen.) I decided to get to work early and catch some waves on the way home.

This afternoon, I knew for "sure" that the spots south of Pacifica would be deeply socked in the fog, but in Pacifica there was still some sun so I decided to go in there. The summer pattern is definitely "in" here with a lot of wind swells and some chops plus dense fog. Speaking of the fog, I actually like it, especially in the sunset time. Without it, what happens is the sun is right in the smack of the ocean making it very difficult to see when and where the hell is the swells coming. But with some fog, especially when it is far out or high up, I can still see them without straining my eyes.

These short distance swells are really fun as they are usually not too big, and when they break they are more like cotton than in a winter time when the swells are pumping at 20 seconds, and when that happens it feels more like a concrete mixer pouring tons of stuff over, especially when I go over the falls and get some major pounding. In the summer like situation, taking out short boards and stay way inside and just catch a bunch and that's my idea of fun surfing. So it was a nice welcome condition for me.

Me and this other guy, we were caching a lot inside and it was so much fun, as the waves were not so regular either so it was fun doing some good turning actions too. There were a lot of cars in the parking lot, but we had a plenty of space to catch waves too.

Something I ought to mention regarding take-offs on short boards under fairly steep situations. Good surfers sure know how to put the weight to the tail while paddling in for take-offs. When I am watching them from the side when they try to take off from relatively steep breaks, the tails are really digged into the wave; they almost look like splitting the wave into left and right halves. Then once they start to get on the board, they look more like jumping down onto the board. So with that realization, I am starting to do that and I think I am seeing additional improvements!

With so many waves I caught, I would give today a Stoke 7.