I have been out of the sea water for over 10 days and for me that's a fairly long time, and that's exactly the point. Being close to and in the water is very important to me, and more I get away from it, more I appreciate how much I like about it. Let me admit that while visiting my parents, brothers and nephews in Japan are great, I was also really looking forward to come back, feel free in the water.
I actually still can't quite articulate why I like it so much, but one thing is for sure is that I sure miss it when I am away from it. I actually don't care if I don't catch any waves, but it is more important for me to be in the water, paddling around, ducking under the water and just the feel of being in the water is something that I really enjoy. If you'd call me I am addicted to surfing, I am actually addicted to be in the water rather than the surfing aspect of it, though, if I don't have a board that would reduce the enjoyment of being in the water, as I am still not feeling that secure if I don't have something to hang on to or sit on. From that stand point I admire people go out just swimming in the open water.
Here are some reasons that I can think why I enjoy it so much;
? It is really awakening and invigorating being in the water. It really set the mode for the rest of the day.
? There always is a situation or two, at least, where I must be fully wide awake; be it caching waves, wiping out or whatever other surf moves I need to take. It really forces me to get rid of any other thoughts.
May be many others that I quite don't know but I am thinking about it so that should come our in a more concrete fashion a bit later on.
It is always interesting to tell people, especially in Japan, that I surf basically year around from winter to winter, but come to think of it, it really no longer occur to me whether it is winter or spring, I just go when it is safe to do so, but I do get some kick out of when people do get surprised when I tell them that. The only exception to this is my mother, who thinks that anything short of reading book is very dangerous thing to do, and should stop immediately if I want to live longer. I am not entirely sure if I would live longer if I just sit on my chair all day and read books. Perhaps someone can do a study on this.
Back to this morning's surfing, well the condition sucked with mostly close outs, but I did catch some waves and I did get in the water for an hour and did come home unharmed so it was really worthwhile. Due to the poor condition, however, I would give today a Stoke 4.