When I announce that I go on vacation, people have a way of planning their emergencies right up to the day I leave. Also servers and apps that I manage at work tend to break, and more people try to venture out into the features that they never use, and you got to hear this I encourage and beg them to use these features when I am not on vacation, sending messages and training materials!
So that means I can only get to do a short session in the morning. And I had to do it in the morning as the summer pattern seems to be settling in with afternoon onshore crappy gusts. But as for the swells, I like the smell of the NW wind swells in the morning. It smells victory!
This morning, it was on a bit junky side plus the negative tide right at when I wanted to go worked against my plan, but nevertheless there were a lot of steep breaks to choose from and I was having a blast trying to catch them. This is when I just put away the longer boards and use the short boards, duck through ease to the middle side and catch bunch of waves after making sure that there is not a long boarder crossing from the outside.
And so I had a few very satisfying take offs as well as "bury the nose and flip forward" type situations too. Only thing I'd wish there were would be longer lasting walls, as after I take off there is no more wave left or right of me!
So the session was a bit short but was fun. Now I will be dry for the next 10 days or so!