Session 5099

This afternoon I was hoping to surf at my neighborhood beach at Kelly St. After waiting for 10 minutes in a line to get into the park, I checked the condition and it was basically fruitless. So I decided to hit south, and ended up at Pomponio, and while the surf was not excellent, but still fun. The waves were breaking close to the shore but still going at about shoulder high, in the standard beach break dumper fashion of fast down and fast dissipating. But I did not care; I am still learning how to take off into these kinds of situations like many other good surfers can do.

I also love the feeling of making through under the waves, when the waves are smaller and I duck through, I like the feel of the waves falling on my spine from head to tail? it is kind of like a shower massage.

I got to practice a lot of take off today while the rides were shorter, but there were several good short boarders taking off and ripping right there too, so they were good reference point for me to shoot for. Right now, my success rate of taking off in "faster beach breaks" is continuing to be better as I now have starting to (especially today) grasp better idea of how much weight shift and stand up timing I need to do just immediately during the take off. The next problem though is that I am still not either skillful or strong enough to get completely up on the board and get in the control losing a balance and wiping out rather quickly. But I know that's the next step and it will be the next phase that I need concur.

Nevertheless, there were a few successful situations so I am very encouraged. But other surfers were doing "off the lips" on a regular basis on similar quality breaks right there so, yes, that's the next stuff. I am fairly certain that I can get there but I don't know how long it will take given my athletic ability and fitness at this point of time. Like I have been doing, I am planning to take this in strides. There is no deadline for me.