Monday, May 02, 2005

Session 5085

More S/SW swells, so that means Jetty at HMB for a quick dipping before heading home. No DP this morning as I needed to rest my arms a bit, but then I could not wait until tomorrow, and I knew that would happen so I now always pack surf gear in my car anytime I go to work.

The condition was variable, sometimes fairly large close out sets then between them I got some nice long rides on my 7.0.

Some changes in taking off the past few sessions; When I have a very successful take-off, it is really quiet, smooth and actually the moment almost seem to go as if it is on a slow motion video, and usually the ride lasts longer. I am guessing that this is partially attributed to getting into a better break spot (right now, I am not aiming for that, it sometimes happens), and also more paddling power to really get ahead of the waves initially.

It is nice to surf just until the sun sets. Stoke 7.

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