Last two days, I was dominated by close out waves. But mostly the condition does not prevent me from going, though I must admit that I now try to pick the best one of the local breaks after checking them out. When the conditions are good, a lot of people show up and surf, but when condition has been poor, people do not generally show up, and so there definitely has been a crowd advantages. Among these poor waves and close outs there are some ridable waves to be found.
In last two sessions, I have actually started to make a progress towards more take offs, and actually where I have learned is how to bail out properly if and when the waves closes out. I am trying to figure out what have changed, but there are something that I fell I am doing better.
One thing I am doing better is to really look left and right and even towards the oncoming wave, and I think I am judging what will happen, and the direction of the break. Several calculations are being done right at the time as to whether I would choose a straight down path or if there is any amount of shoulder, then which way I am going to take off into, or if it is going to be more like a straight close out, where I'd bail or try going straight down etc. I would even know that if I was in a wrong spot, and after the set passes, I would migrate to where the waves are breaking better.
At any rate, I am now actually up on the board more than I have been able to on a much steeper situations, however, I am still a bit afraid of them and not agile enough, and so I am not fully committing to the forward weighting position sooner and stalling out, not making turns. But now I am starting to see another light at the end of this tunnel, which really gives me a hope.
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