Tuesday, March 08, 2005

Session 5046

The goddess of the surf has set the dial to Wash and closed the lid. This morning, I tried the Jetty and it was already getting rather gnarly. If you paddle out, you can live in "now", because there just can be nothing else that can be thought or done but paddle! Paddle and Paddle! Paddling out was so much work, and many people were having difficulty getting out. There were just so much white water waves gushing in all directions, including backwashes from the breakwater. I am happy to report though, I did make it to the outside. That made me happy. Not much progress today in terms of rides, but just a lot of paddling around and ducking through. By tomorrow a huge set of swell will be arriving from the W. So I am going to get up a bit late, do some Yoga and Indo Board.

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